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A REPORT PREPARED JOINTLY BY THE DEPARTMENT OF LOCAL GOVERNMENT AND THE ENVIRONMENT, MANX NATIONAL HERITAGE, THE DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORT, THE DEPARTMENT OF TOURISM AND LEISURE, THE ISLE OF MAN WATER AUTHORITY AND THE DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, FISHERIES AND FORESTRY
£5.00
February 2005
reservoir facilitates access and provides for formal recreation activities including walking and fishing. The reservoir itself produces a distinctive landscape that is in marked contrast to the surrounding moorland areas.
6.3 HUMAN SETTLEMENT
6.3.1 The area is only sparsely populated; there are buildings at Druidale Farm, Water Authority structures, a converted chapel and school, some remaining smallholdings and, on the upper slopes, numerous deserted tholtans and farmsteads. Whilst these are not individually of great distinction, some of the older vernacular buildings make a distinctive and important contribution to the overall character of the landscape, as represented in the derelict structures that exist at Killabrega and elsewhere.
6.4 PUBLIC ACCESS
6.4.1 The Millennium Way traverses the area along its south eastern side below the summit of Snaefell and commands fine views down the Glen towards the reservoir. The right of ramblage is also available at various locations throughout the area and access is provided around the reservoir. However, a strong case can be made for greater pedestrian access to the lower, enclosed land including the afforested area so as to provide greater opportunities for recreation for the public. The question of access onto the reservoir needs to be addressed. Any new footpaths will require appropriate signing, and some assessment of the possible need for further car parking should be undertaken. Car parks will be the best places for the provision of information about the National Heritage Area, the reasons for its designation, its qualities and constituent parts, and any restrictions on use etc.
6.5 FORESTRY
6.5 It is hoped that designation of this area will bring with it the impetus to ameliorate some of the less desirable attributes of existing large coniferous plantations, as is now proposed within the Forestry Policy agreed by Tynwald in October 2000. In particular the rescue of heather moorland on those upper slopes which have been afforested seems highly desirable, as does the creation of more sympathetic margins to the plantations. This, together with the introduction of appropriate hardwoods in suitable locations and the renewal and extension of existing areas of semi-natural woodland with Manx native-sourced trees, is highly desirable. The forests within the Area can then not only become a more attractive location for visitors to enjoy, but also lead to greater biodiversity and attract a wider variety of wildlife as well as enhancing the area scenically.
lands during the summer months from wandering homeward across fields full of precious ripening harvest.
6.7.6 Across the valley from Mount Karrin is the small glen known as the Cluggid - Manx for throat - referring to the stream which flows through a narrow arch in the rock, very much like a throat. The waterfall here is a well known local beauty spot, and a place visited by charabang-loads of Victorian tourists on their way to tea shops at Tholt y Will.
6.7.7 There remain several cottages along the Glen road, each with its own story to tell. The 'Irishmens' Cottages' recalls workmen brought in to effect the changes just described to the valley and the hill lands during the 19th century. These dwellings, as do others in the Glen, retain a quality of honest simplicity characteristic of vernacular buildings and are at one with their natural setting. Streams such Struan Rheagh, 'the laughing stream' and Alt Dhoo, 'the black steam', find their way down to the valley floor from the higher slopes, to join the main river, and recall a time when a larger rural population found it necessary to provide descriptive and distinctive names for otherwise similar landscape features. At places along the riverbanks there is still evidence of crossing places once used as short cuts by some of the Sulby men who walked daily to the Snaefell and Laxey Mines.
6.7.8 The strength and size of community in the area is further proved by the building in the 1860s of a school - the 'Mountain School' - and a schoolmaster's house. This was financed by a legacy and in 1829 the roof (up to then thatched) was slated, the work being funded by private subscriptions from the farming families of the Glen. Many upland farms are still evident: abandoned farms such as Crammag, Creggans, Corrody, Block Eary, Craigmooar, Killabrega, Ballaskella and others, make a vital contribution to the historic landscape of the area. Druidale Farm occupies a commanding position overlooking the Sulby Reservoir. Over one hundred years ago, it is said that some innovative approaches to farming this holding were introduced by a proprietor named Brooks. The story also has it that Brooks added Brandy to the spring at the head of the glen to impress some of his American visitors, who had never tasted the like anywhere in America: hence the name Brandywell!
6.7.9 There are numerous stories which recall the historical and sociological rise and decline of this Glen community. They all serve to underpin the "sense of place" which is experienced and enhanced by the feeling of physical enclosure of the valley created by the surrounding hills. This underpins the view that the Sulby Glen and Uplands occupy a very special place in the historic landscape of the Island.
6.8 ARCHAEOLOGY
shielings, groups of simple, insubstantial huts built for use only during the summer months by those tending the herds grazing on the common lands. The archaeological remains of over forty groups of these huts have been recognised in the Sulby area.
6.8.10 Several groups of shieling huts are associated with boundaries forming stockades in which animals - cows, sheep, horses and geese - could be gathered for safety, or for counting, shearing, milking, etc. Some of these banks may also have formed fields from which stock was excluded in order to allow crops to grow. Evidence has been found suggesting that grain grown in such fields was harvested whilst still green, deliberately parched in kilns, and transported back down to the lowland farms at the end of the summer. Cheese-making is another activity thought likely to have occurred.
6.8.11 Artefacts from the one site to have been excavated hint at the domestic activities which took place, and include a board-game and a silver penny. Spiritual guidance was provided at no less than three chapels, or keeills, in the area.
6.8.12 There is also increasing evidence that during Medieval times permanent settlement was also attempted in Sulby Glen and elsewhere, at altitudes greater than the abandoned farmsteads which are so much a feature of the landscape. This is the subject of ongoing research focussing on the three major valleys in the area (Glen Dhoo, Sulby Glen, and Glen Auldyn) which emphasises the research importance of the glen.
6.8.13 It is during the Medieval period that Sulby's natural assets are deliberately divided up amongst the various parishes which came into being in the 12th century, so that four parishes had access to at least some of the natural resources of the valley, grazing and peat for fuel being the most significant (small quarries for stone, and access to water for milling were also important). No other Manx valley was so carefully exploited.
6.8.14 Latterly, the ruined farms, which are so obviously preserved in the area, were the last attempt permanently to occupy the glen. Many of these are intack farms, enclosed from the commons under licence, their status as such implicitly hinting at their poorer quality when compared with the quarterland farms, and emphasised by the speed with which their soils became impoverished and they were abandoned.
6.8.15 All of these periods of human activity have left enduring evidence of a constant struggle to exploit this marginal landscape. The remains which survive have created an unique set of patterns of evidence, each subtly different, which together form a palimpsest of unparalleled detail and completeness. The value of disparate archaeological remains, relating to life and death, agricultural, ritual, religious and domestic activities, and belonging to different periods of prehistory and history, is greatly augmented wherever they occur together. Nowhere on the island is this more clearly the case than in Sulby Glen.
9.1 DESIGNATION
9.1.1 The Working Group accordingly recommends that:
as outlined (for identification purposes only) on the maps annexed to this Report, be designated as National Heritage Areas, in accordance with Policy NHA/1 contained in the document Policy and Guidance Notes for the Conservation of the Historic Environment of the Isle of Man which was received and approved by Tynwald on the 17th May 2000
9.2 MANAGEMENT STRATEGY
9.2.1 Following this designation it is important that the Departments of Local Government and the Environment; Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry; Tourism and Leisure, Transport, together with Manx National Heritage and the Isle of Man Water Authority, be committed to putting in place a Management Strategy for each National Heritage Area which will respect the traditional landscape character and strong 'sense of place', and acknowledge features in the landscape which are notable for their scenic, historical or ecological interest.
9.2.2 This Strategy will be produced by the Inter-Departmental Working Group in draft and consulted on. The Working Group will also be responsible for implementing and reviewing the Strategy. It is not intended that this Strategy should replace plans produced under other legislation, but it will inform their preparation.
9.2.3 It is expected that the Management Strategy will do the following:
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Appendix 1: Extract from Policy and Guidance Notes for the Conservation of the Historic Environment of the Isle of Man – Planning Policy Statement 1/01 - National Heritage Areas
The Department, in collaboration with Manx National Heritage, the Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry, The Department of Tourism and Leisure and other government departments, where appropriate, may seek to identify and recognise the special heritage status of areas considered to be of national importance, by designation of heritage areas. These areas may contain a variety of existing special sites and/or protected features which might for example be Registered Buildings, Ancient Monuments, Conservation Areas and/or areas of high ecological, landscape or scientific value. Such areas will, as a result of a concentration of such special features, possess a character and quality which is worthy of recognition at a still higher level. National Heritage Area status will ensure that a comprehensive and integrated approach can be adopted by the various sections of government in order to protect, conserve and enhance the essential character of an area, uniting all other conservation measures, to guarantee its continuing care, presentation and enjoyment.
Following the recognition of National Heritage Area status, it will be the responsibility of the planning and heritage authorities, in consultation with appropriate branches of government, local authorities, landowners and residents, to develop integrated policies and plans to conserve the area in the long-term interest of the Manx nation.
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